Home / Blog

BEGINNER

5 Easy Problems at Stanage for Beginners

V0 to V2 classics that will make you fall in love with gritstone. Approach beta and landing zones included.

Before you pull on

Grit is sharp and the landings are not gym mats. Take a pad, a spotter, and shoes with some edge. If the rock is dark or the forecast just dumped, go to The Climbing Works instead.

The five

We’re not reprinting a guidebook. These are the kinds of problems to look for in the Plantation / Popular bouldering — low, obvious, well-travelled, with landings you can pad properly:

  1. A traverse you can drop off anytime — learn the rock without a high topout.
  2. A vertical wall with positive edges — trust your feet, don’t overgrip.
  3. A slab that looks like nothing and feels like everything — smear, stand up, laugh.
  4. A short arete with a straightforward mantel — practice the topout you’ll need forever.
  5. One slightly steeper problem at the top of your indoor grade — then stop.

Landings

Move the pad. Then move it again. Grit topouts are where people get hurt, not the first move. If you need two pads and only have one, pick a different bloc.

Full venue notes: Stanage Edge guide.